🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end venues. Yet, tucked near the top among these gastronomic titans is a simple salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Shocking Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been declared the 4th top restaurant in the capital by a prominent food magazine. The recognition has left the proprietors completely shocked.

“I am utterly astonished,” says the owner’s son, referring to his parents’ hard graft that led to their modest restaurant earning such a prominent ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its change into a popular food hotspot, has kept much of its earlier feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, except for the impressive live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky space,” says the owner.

A Star Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery definitely excels. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward pleasure. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then thrown into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the savoury mixture heats through, homemade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is rolled tightly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a strong slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than found elsewhere, giving it a richer, more aromatic and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Remarkably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave the restaurant stuffed for less than £25, similar tasting menus at top-tier establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a masterclass, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Story of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at elite establishments. “I am very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to become successful, but this eatery first started seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Each item is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to echo outside its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” says the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.